Sea Squad South America

To my esteemed fellow members of Sea Squad, and future members, I am pleased to report from Lake Titicaca, the highest navigable lake in the world. The lake it truly immense, and when on it, seems like an ocean, complete with rolling waves, although no tides or surf breaking on its shores.

I am currently writing from Puno, the largest city on the lake, which is the home city of BI honorary member Aymar Ccopocatty. Aymar, being from North America a well, is highly aware of the pollution problem that is developing here and is documenting the algae blooms due to nitrogen overload close to Puno, caused by dumping raw sewage into the lake, on film. He is doing his best to educate his people about this problem, but reports that it is frustrating because the people don´t really have a concept of pollution yet. I am happy to report that the pollution only seems to be in Puno. After a two day excursion on the lake, I can report nothing but pristine water and thriving cultures on the islands I visited.

Becky Hogan and I set forth from Puno with an international motley crew on a boat that looked like the one from Gilligan´s island. Our goal, Amantani, the island of the magenta, bell-shaped Kantuta flower, 15 miles out from Puno. First, however, we made a stop at one of the legendary islands of the Uros, a pre-Inka people who escaped into the totora reeds when the Inkas came to conquer the area. Eventually they began to build rafts to survive on, and the rafts became islands. Today there are still many people living on these floating islands with a unique language and culture. Many of them subsist on tourism, so it was a bit depressing to visit because there were many requests for money, but some are anchored deeper into the reeds and do not receive visitors. The totora reed, like our native cattail used by the Manisses and other New England tribes, supplies them with many building materials, including reed houses and boats. We took a ride in a reed boat which was quite stable, although some of my fellow passengers seemed a bit nervous that we were going to tip. All the island children jumped on the boats with us and entertained us enthusiastically with songs in Aymara, Quechua, Spanish, English, French, German and Japanese! They passed around their hats after, of course, but I was happy to give them a couple of sols. Our guide mistakenly told us that one of Sea Squad´s heroes, Thor Heyerdahl, learned how to make reed boats from the Uros, but I didn´t correct him, not wanting to appear to be a know it all in front of the very attractive and hip Uruguayans. Heyerdahl did learn the technique from some legendary Aymara boat builders from the lake, however, and proceeded to sail them on the Ra Expedition which began in Egypt, I think, and went on to Asia? Any Sea Squad members know? Our guide also informed us, correctly, that another Sea Squad hero, Jacques Cousteau, discovered the worlds´ largest frogs when he explored the lake.

I wasn´t lucky enough to see any frogs, but I was lucky enough to spend two nights on the stunning island of Amantani. While there I was privileged to dine on one of the four native species of fish remaining in the lake. The other 32 have been wiped out due to the introduction of trout and kingfish. The fist looked like silverfish and were fried whole, which means they had eyes to look at us. I didn´t mind the eyes so much, but Hogues did. I, however, was not so keen on the taste. The remaining fish were quickly scooped into napkins and carried down to the lake as an offering to Neptune. Hopefully the seagulls had a party. We were staying with a local family and felt it would be an insult not to eat the fish, especially because our host was so proud to serve them up.

Amantani was an inspiration in so many ways, and we on Block Island could learn much from the way tourism operates there. The island is about the same size as BI, but has no cars. Everyone walks up the very steep stone pathways, often carrying heavy loads, to work in the terraced fields of potatoes, corn, beans, and quinoa. The island operates communally. A 5 sol ($1.50) fee is collected from all tourists which is distributed equally among the 4,000 residents, and tourists are rotated among the families on an equal basis so everyone gets a little income, although I think in Peruvian terms it is probably not so little. Of all the rural places I have seen so far, Amantani has the highest quality of life. All the houses were large in Peruvian terms, with tin, not thatched roofs, and had beautiful gardens and bright green outhouses out back. Also, the town had a windmill and many houses had solar panels for electricity. With no cars, no dogs (and their wastes), no internet, and no phones, Amantani is the most peaceful place I have ever been. Becky and I hiked up to the two highest points on the island, Pachamama and Pachatata, where there are shrines to mother and father earth, and also circumnavigated the island during our stay. I know that I will treasure those two days there for the rest of my life and feel so lucky to be sending this report to my fellow members. See you in a couple of months when the water is warming up and the stripers are starting to run!

Whitewave